Melting Pot

Ceuta prides itself to be a frontier city due to a multitude of aspects; all of which have influenced the way that the city has come to be. Each of them is intrinsic to the reality of modern Ceuta, whether we look at its geographical nature, social composition, or political raison d'etre.

Geographically, it's placed right between two bodies of salt water, the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. The contrast is not as stark as it would be in Tangier, where you literally see an immense swimming pool that suddenly and out of the blue (aha, puns) changes colour and rhythm. However, the two sides of the peninsula look astonishingly different - one kissed by an ocean, the other by a sea.

Socially, Ceuta is a melting pot; and it prides itself to be one. So much so that it yearly issues the "Premio Convivencia" to any entity that allegedly fosters peace and coexistence in communities with strong and diverse religious or cultural identities. It really is the motto and logo of the city; the welcome sign is composed of all main symbols of Christianity, Judaism, Islam, Buddhism and Hinduism. Not only that - I've noticed today that Christmas lighting in the city (I guess lazy mayor, Christmas is coming every year anyway?) are moulded to each represent a symbol of each of Ceuta's largest religions. Which is a bit of an oxymoron - CHRISTmas and Mantras? I suppose it makes a lot of sense if we were to understand Christmas as the monetary and consumerist holiday it has become - then your religion really doesn't matter as long as you spend a little more using the Santa Claus excuse.

But really, the big and evident divide is between Christians (Spanish) and Muslims (mostly Spanish as well). It does sound like a deja-vu for someone who has lived in Belfast. It is impossible to look at anyone and guess their religion or ethnic background - I've met more Moroccan women that reflect the European stereotype than Spanish ones do, and more Spanish women that could well be mistaken for Northern Africans. So really, ethnicity and birthplace are the lesser issues. But because religion here also implies a lot of other different social, economic and political discrepancies, it becomes the only true feature with the potential to tear down the somewhat peaceful interactions Ceuta managed to build throughout the years. Yep, it does sound a lot like Belfast. I am again in a deeply divided community that for the sake of funding and appearance does everything it can to conceal the obvious underlining reasons for the stark social and economic divide between religious and ethnic groups.

The answer, despite all the efforts in promoting "Convivencia", is strongly at odds with what politicians in Ceuta would want you to believe. Yet, at the same time, it is not nearly as desperate as foreign media portrays. I consider myself very lucky - I've managed to get a privileged position here in Ceuta, that allows me to interact and observe the underlying realities that both foreign media and local authorities try to conceal. Only by teaching kids and women the reality of this divide is crystal clear - starting from the geographical segregation, passing by employment discrimination, and ending in exclusion from national education. Ceuta is indeed a melting pot of cultures - however the bitterness at the back of my throat after tasting a spoonful, tells me that a few ingredients might have been overvalued over others, resulting in a nasty end flavour that is anything but balanced.

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